Do you eat meat?

Are You A Vegetarian Or Vegan?

As an Animal Communicator and animal advocate I am frequently asked this question.

Montague the rooster

The psychic fairs that I attended for the last 5 years allowed me to lecture in front of hundreds of people. At the end of the lecture I would always take a few questions from the crowd. It never failed…that question always came up.

Many of us are becoming aware of the health advantages of a vegetarian or vegan diet. For a definition click here

Is going Veg right for you?

I will admit that I changed my dietary habits after I communicated with the animals that were going to be used for consumption. It was heartbreaking to hear their thoughts and fears.

Here is a site that I love GoVeg.com. Lots of great recipes and resources. Be aware that the video section is difficult to watch. So if you are sensitive beware.

Looking back, I’m actually glad I watched the videos. Although it made me ill and I was disgusted afterward, it really helped me take the leap to a different type of lifestyle that did not include animal products.

Wild turkeys outside my kitchen window

I think this decision is a personal one that you make based on your specific dietary needs, requirements, belief system and your doctor’s recommendations.

I work with the following professionals to ensure optimum health: A naturopathic doctor, chiropractor, acupressure therapist as well as my regular MD.

What should you do?

My diet does not include consuming the meat of animals. I am also eliminating dairy products and leaning toward a vegan diet now that I know how much animals suffer in factory farms and dairies.

Not to imply that all farmers or ranchers mistreat their animals.  This is specifically geared toward large factory farms.

Do what feels right to you…

If you have a moral issue with consuming animal products there are many sites and groups that support a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle.

Click here to learn how to become a vegetarian or vegan.

The Leaping Bunny Cruelty Free Shopping site is also a great place to start.

For a Compassionate Shopping Guide click here.

After much research and investigation I can no longer tolerate the brutal treatment of farm or dairy animals used for human consumption.

What goes on behind the scenes can be seen here.

As Sir Paul McCartney says…” If slaughterhouses had glass walls… ”

**Extremely graphic footage**Viewer discretion advised**

The bottom line is we all have to make the decision that is best for us.

It is a moral, ethical and nutritional decision.

On behalf of the animals I ask you to consider making the leap to a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle.

Animals are masters at covering up their illness and injury.

They tell me it is a sign of weakness in the animal kingdom. By the time we notice something is wrong it can be too late.

Dehydration can be an indication of illness or injury and in some cases lead to death.

This simple test can provide early detection and even save lives.

1) Gently pull up on your animal’s skin on their back near the shoulders into a ‘tent’.

2) Release the skin

If the skin stays in this ‘tent’ position after you have released the skin or it is slow to return to it’s normal place then your animal may be dehydrated and you should call veterinarian as soon as possible.

If the skin returns to it’s normal place quickly this is an indication that your animal is properly hydrated.

Cats can become dehydrated quickly so perform this test on a regular basis so you know what ‘normal’ is like for your animals.

PIs something inside telling you that things with your dog are just not right?

Is your dog lethargic at times when he/she shouldn’t be?

Does your dog seem uninterested in food?

Karin and her dog Mr Darcy discovered what was really going on with him…

Printed with permission

By Karin Singleton

Experience with PPDH

(Peritoneal Pericardial Diaphragmatic Hernia)

and a complicated recovery process

On August 12, 2009 my dog Mr. Darcy underwent surgery at the Veterinary Specialty Hospital in Cary, NC. It was supposed to be a liver biopsy and turned into the repair of PPDH.

Mr. Darcy, 2 yrs

As often, I did some research after the event, and found that PPDH is a congenital birth defect that, while rare, seems to be more prevalent in Weimaraners. It happens when the fetus does not develop properly. There is a hole in the diaphragm (that is the large muscle that separates the chest from the abdominal cavity) that allows tissue from the internal organs, such as liver, pancreas, intestines, or stomach, to protrude into the chest cavity, potentially affecting the heart (the pericardium is a sac that surrounds the heart).

In Mr. Darcy’s case, this hole was almost 2 inches in diameter. However, until the day of the ‘liver biopsy’ nobody was expecting to find the condition PPDH. It is rare, and there does not seem to be a clear-cut set of symptoms. When I reported back to my regular vet, he told me that he knew of the condition but had never encountered it himself.

In hindsight, there were signs that pointed towards it, and I want to summarize them here so that others may be alerted and can possibly shorten the diagnostic process.

• A blood test detected highly elevated liver enzymes (in his case lymphocytes, ALT (SGPT) and alkaline phosphatase). The initial diagnosis was hepatitis, and it was treated with antibiotics. Initially, it seemed to improve, but after 2 re-tests, the levels were as high as they had been before, prompting the recommendation for a laparoscopic liver biopsy.
• Both ultrasounds of the liver showed a texture that was not right. The second one indicated potential problems with the gall bladder and bile duct.

In addition to that, I had also made some casual observations that only in hindsight make sense.

• Mr. Darcy is about 2 years old. I had often noticed that he was not as energetic as I expected a ‘normal’ Weimaraner at that age to be. I just thought he was very laid back.
• The whole process started when I rushed him to the hospital because I thought he was about to bloat; his stomach was distended and something just did not seem to be right.
• He began to act differently towards food and refused to eat dry dog food. I later learned that part of his pancreas, intestines and liver had herniated into the chest cavity. The dry food probably made him feel bad.
• He sometimes seemed to feel unwell after having eaten. That went away after a little while, and he acted completely normal again.
• He also once had an umbilical hernia. It was fixed when the club had him neutered (he is a rescue), and I never thought anything of it. I know now that it can go together with PPDH.

I had never even heard of PPDH until a few weeks ago. It is obviously a very serious condition, but it not the first thing that a vet would suspect. As our Weimaraners are more prone to it than other breeds, I wanted to share my experience with you.
The story continues …..

After the surgery, I expected that things would gradually return to normal within a week or two the way they do after abdominal surgeries. Unfortunately, they did not. I had completely underestimated the complicated recovery process following this kind of surgery, and I suppose that there is not much data to guide the patients and their caretakers. I put Mr. Darcy on the normal ‘EN’ diet which is normal after surgeries.

Subsequent blood test showed that his liver enzymes were still elevated. A bile acid test was done and also had elevated values.

The hunt was on for the cause, and the possibility for a ‘Portosystemic Shunt’ was mentioned.  An ultrasound was done, and the possibility of an external shunt was pretty much eliminated. An internal shunt was only a remote possibility because dogs with this condition usually have stunted growth (Mr. Darcy is large for his breed), and their livers are shrunken. The ultrasound showed evidence of pancreatitis.

In the meantime, Mr. Darcy had good days (few) and bad days (more), was often lethargic and really did not show any signs that he was returning to his normal self. His food intake became more and more picky. Ultimately, he only ate milkbones, and even those he refused after throwing up.

Mr. Darcy was getting worse, and ultimately had to be hospitalized one more time after a flare-up of pancreatitis, vomiting and just being worn out. It was now more than 5 weeks after the surgery, and, frankly, I was bracing myself for the worst because I saw no improvement and did not want to subject him to any more invasive tests.

I had a meeting with the surgeon, and he told me how bad the situation inside Mr. Darcy’s body actually had been. Parts of his liver, pancreas and intestine had been entrapped in the hole. He actually had to enlarge the hole first to pull them out! We agreed to hold off on any more tests and try a diet route.

I had read that a low protein and low fat diet sometimes helps, and that was the plan of action. However, putting theory into practice in such a difficult clinical case is easier said than done. I was blessed to have found Dr. Susan Lauten who specialized in pet nutrition. With her help, I put Mr. Darcy on a strict diet. Within 2 days, I began to see an improvement.

I am writing this at the end of October 2009. I have almost completed the process of moving Mr. Darcy to a more normal diet. At this time, I decided to cook for him according to a recipe that Dr. Lauten has provided for me.

Mr. Darcy is much improved, and I am no longer concerned for his life. The recovery process is still ongoing. It seems that his liver and pancreas are still trying to get used to the new situation after having been entrapped for about 2 years.

Having the benefit of hindsight both with the diagnostic process (see above) and with the recovery, the one essential component after his surgery was the nutrition. I believe that I could have spared Mr. Darcy a lot of pain and suffering and myself many sleepless nights if I had contacted Dr. Lauten immediately after the surgery.

Mr. Darcy was fortunate in having a surgeon who was able to ‘fix’ the mechanical part of the problem. But this was only half the battle. The nutrition part was just as important for his recovery, and I cannot recommend Dr. Susan Lauten more for her caring and expertise. She can be reached through www.petnutritionconsulting.com.

There are a lot of myths floating around out there about the cats and dogs we share our life with.

Here are a few common myths:

Dogs and cats should have a litter before they are spayed.

False.  In fact cats and dogs do not need to have a litter before being spayed. Both will live happier, healthier lives without possible uterine infections and in some cases a lower risk of mammary cancer.

Happy dogs wag their tails.

This may be true but aggressive dogs often wag their tails too.  A wagging tail can mean either agitation or excitement. A dog that wags his tail slowly and moves his entire rear end or crouches down in the classic “play bow” position is usually demonstrating a friendly wag. Tails that are wagged when held higher, tails that “twitch” or a wagging tail held over the back may be associated with aggression.

Dogs and cats will let you know when they are sick.

False, false false! The animal kingdom sees injury and illness as a sign of weakness and instinctual habits will cause most of them to hide and cover up their medical problems.  By the time we notice something is wrong an illness can be quite advanced.

Dogs and cats like tasty food.

Both dogs and cats have poor taste buds and rely mainly on their sense of smell to eat. This explains why if they are congested and can’t breathe properly that they may refuse to eat.

Indoor cats don’t need heart-worm medicine.

False again.  Indoor cats can get heart-worm disease as it is spread by mosquitoes which can easily go inside.

Recently a client named Sandra contacted me after she inadvertently poisoned her cat, Slinky by giving her Tylenol which contains Acetaminophen.  Acetaminophen is highly toxic to cats and should never be administered.

Needless to say, Sandra was riddled with guilt over Slinky’s death.

Please don’t make the same mistake Sandra made.

A quick call to the veterinarian’s office could have prevented this tragedy from occurring…

Never give your animals any over the counter medication without consulting with your veterinarian.  Below are some medications that have been known to be safe for either cats or dogs but read carefully. Some are not safe for cats.

Tylenol- NOT SAFE FOR CATS                   

SAFE FOR DOGS - Under veterinarian care only

This seemingly safe drug used in humans for headaches and fever, can actually be deadly to your cat.

Why?

Cats have an unusual metabolism in their liver. When Tylenol is eaten, it is taken by the bloodstream to the liver.  In the cat, the liver metabolizes or breaks down Tylenol into separate components which are actually toxic to the cat.  In other species these components are further broken down by the liver into non-toxic substances.

But the cat lacks the necessary enzymes to continue this breakdown process.  These end products of Tylenol breakdown are so toxic to the cat that death is the typical outcome.

Source: ASPCA,  Dr. Jon

Ibuprofen is an NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug).  Ibuprofen goes by several brand names, such as Advil and Motrin. 

Ibuprofen should be used only as directed by your veterinarian for dogs.

Avoid administering Ibuprofen to cats. Source: VMA, Dr Jon

Aspirin - CAN BE SAFE FOR CATS AND DOGS

Check with your vet first!

These are the most commonly used drugs today classified as NSAIDS (Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), and are used for pain relief, and sometimes relief of inflammation in both dogs and cats.  Once again, cats tend to metabolize (or break down) the aspirin products more slowly than dogs or humans, so dosage is usually done on an every other day basis in the cat.  As with any NSAID, stomach upset can be a commonly seen side effect, so discontinuing the drug if vomiting occurs is recommended.

Typically, your veterinarian may recommend buffered aspirin, or more effective, Ascriptin.  This form of aspirin contains Maalox, which helps to coat the stomach lining, and prevent irritation associated with aspirin products.  Long term usage of aspirin, may also result in complications with the normal clotting of blood.  Therefore, discontinuation of all aspirin products prior to any surgery is highly recommended.

Pepto Bismol - NOT SAFE FOR CATS                                     

SAFE FOR DOGS

Commonly recommended for our pets for stomach upset or diarrhea, Pepto-Bismol should only be used in the dog, as it can not be given daily to the cat.  Perhaps the one benefit of Pepto-Bismol, is that of coating the stomach, and perhaps alleviating some symptoms of nausea.  As for diarrhea, there seems to be little Pepto-Bismol can do.

Kaopectate - NOT SAFE FOR CATS

SAFE FOR DOGS

This too has been used in our pets for stomach upset or diarrhea.  Some veterinarians swear by its effect, yet to date, little has been shown to its effectiveness in clinical studies.  Recommended only for use in the dog.

Imodium AD - SAFE FOR CATS & SAFE FOR DOGS

This anti-diarrhea medication is useful in both dogs and cats.  It seems to work better with small intestinal diarrhea and is available in both tablet and liquid form.  Check with your veterinarian if your pet could take this drug, and at what dosage.

Pepcid AC- NOT SAFE FOR CATS

SAFE FOR DOGS

Is a useful drug for vomiting in the dog.  Designed as an antacid, Pepcid AC decreases the acid secretion in the stomach, thereby alleviating associated discomfort and nausea.  Check with your veterinarian if you pet could take this drug and at what dosage.
If you suspect your animal has ingested something it shouldn’t contact your veterinarian immediately and/or the Animal Poison Control Center

I get many emails and letters but I had to share this one with you.

Peyton is a gorgeous young kitty whose mom, Cindy contacted me to have a session with him when he was having a health issue.

Peyton shared many messages during his session but after it was over I got this letter…from Peyton the cat himself!

“The Saturday before Thanksgiving my mom, Cindy came home to find me pretty out of it laying on the bathroom rug. She picked me and brought me into the other room where I just lay quietly. Nothing she did, picking up my favorite toys, opening my favorite food-salmon-yum, did the trick. She woke up my Dad who explained that earlier that day I was running around playing and eating.

They decided to take me to Emergency.

The vet told them to wait and see and if I didn’t get better, to take me to my regular vet Monday, which they did. By then I just didn’t have the energy to clean myself and just hid in my tunnel. At the vet, they did the dreaded blood work which showed them that my liver enzymes were very high, the worst they had seen!

My mom was very worried and decided she wanted to talk to me. She was referred to Karen Anderson and they set up a time to talk. It was great to finally be able to tell my mom how much I loved her and let her know how happy her and dad make me. Dad sings to me, which I love, and Karen told her how appreciative I was of that.

Karen saw all these energy blocks around my body and was able to tell her that I would benefit from a liver cleanse with herbs like Milk Thistle. She also explained that my diet of Fancy Feast was similar to the diet of McDonald’s for humans. She told my mom that I didn’t want her to worry but that I did need her help.

My mom felt reassured and was very happy with this discussion and immediately made an appointment with a holistic vet who agreed that Milk Thistle would be very beneficial. I was prescribed Denamarin which has Silbyin in it, which is the major flavonolignan from the extracts of the milk thistle seed. I took this along with the antibiotics for about 5 weeks having appointments along the way, each time with my levels going down.

I am happy to say that on New Year’s Eve my levels were finally normal!

I am now medicine free… thankfully; I hated that stuff.

I am back to playing with my favorite monkey toy and waking my parents up early in the morning and “hunting” them during hide & seek. I am eating well and at a good weight and am bump free.

The holistic vet also informed my mom of a new food to try which we are starting this weekend. She didn’t want to overwhelm me with so many things at once. I heard it has salmon in it so it can’t be that bad.

My mom & dad, Cindy Dely & Greg Martin and I want to express our deep thanks to Karen for helping us in this scary time!

Love, Peyton Dely Martin”

Photo above

If you are lucky enough to have cats and not have a litter box issue, consider yourself blessed.  I get more calls and emails about litter box issues than just about every other behavior problem combined.   

There is no magic cure to get kitty back in the litter box and just because I can ‘talk’ to them does not mean they will suddenly start using the box.  It has happened, but only on rare occasions.  

Refusing to use a litter box is completely different from territorial spraying or marking. When a cat backs up to a vertical surface such as a wall, corner, piece of furniture, etc. and releases a stream of urine it is called spraying.  I’ll cover spraying issues another time.

Improper litter box elimination, whether it is urinating or defecating outside of the litter box, is usually done on a horizontal surface such as the floor, tile, carpet, bed, counter top, etc. If you are experiencing a litter box problem the first thing you have to do is rule out any kind of medical issue.

The first and most important step is to rule out a medical problem…

Get a thorough check up and rule out any types of bladder issues, infections, constipation or urinary blockages.  If a cat experiences any kind of pain during elimination, they may associate the litter box as a source of their pain, and avoid the box completely.

Stress is the most common source of litter box troubles

Stress is a common underlying problem with litter box issues.  Stress can come from you, your family, your other animals, a job change, moving, a new baby, etc.  Rule out any potential areas of stress in your environment. Create a relaxed, balanced and peaceful space for your cat.

Let’s go over a few helpful tips

• Number of Litter boxes-The Golden Rule is 1 box per cat plus one box.  So if you have 2 cats you should ideally have 3 boxes.
• Litter Box location-Placing kitty’s box in a high traffic area, laundry room, or other noise inducing area is a recipe for disaster.  I had one cat tell me she would not go in the litter box because the ‘loud, scary monster’ was going to attack her.  Turned out the litter box was in the laundry room and the cat had been in there using the box when the loud buzzer when off.  Choose a quiet, safe location that does not have a lot of distractions or noises.
• Basement litter boxes- Ladies, help me out here.  Have you ever been out in public, had to use the restroom and realized you had to walk a mile to get to the nearest one? By the time you arrive you are ready to burst.  If you have placed your litter box in the furthest spot away from everyone …in the last room in the basement, be prepared to have your cat choose a closer spot to go potty.  Trust me here, they will choose a sink, bathtub, corner, planter, you name it.  Just don’t make them walk so far to get to the litter box.
• Litter- This is really tricky.  Some cats tell me that they like the finest, softest grade of litter, which explains why they like to go on clothing, carpets and other soft spots.  Choose a high quality, fine grade litter. Each cat is different, however so I suggest giving them choices.  Let them choose.  Fill one box with one brand and another box with the other brand.  See what brand they like best.
• No Litter- What? No litter? Yup, that’s right, I have actually had successes with cats who were using shiny surfaces as a litter box, such as a sink, bathtub, counter top, etc…start to use an empty litter box placed near the spot they were using.  Try it.  It just might work.  Then each day move the box a bit closer to where you ultimately want it.
• Place Box Near Area - Another trick is to place a litter box near the area they are using as their favorite spot.  Slowly over time move the box closer to where you ultimately want it.
• Deodorizers- Some cats like them, some cats don’t.  Cats have 60-to-80 million olfactory cells compared to a humans 5-to-20 million cells.  That’s huge.  Consider switching to odorless if you are having a problem getting kitty to go in the box.
• Covered Litter Boxes- To cover, or not to cover, that is the question.  I say give them a choice.  Cats like to change their minds and what they like today they may not like tomorrow.  Give them a covered box and and uncovered box.  Why not!
• Cleanliness- Okay, let’s be honest. When is the last time you cleaned and really disinfected your litter boxes? Just do it.  Once a month is my recommendation.
• One Stop Shopping -  Again ladies, I need your help here.  I don’t know about you but when I go shopping I want to get as many items in one place as possible.  I don’t like going all over town to run my errands.  Cats can feel the same way too.  Give them more than one reason to go to their box. Placing a scratching post near the area where the box is, placing food or water near the area, (Not too close), make this a one stop location for all your kitty’s needs.
• Eliminating Odors- I have tried just about every cleaning product and enzymatic powder on the market and right now I really like SCOE.  I’ve tried Nature’s Miracle, Anti-Icky poo, Planet Urine, etc.  The SCOE with several applications even got out some old and heavily stained problem areas.

Schedule a session…

A session can always help find out what the problem is, if someone or something is bothering your cat.  In past sessions it has been everything from a medical condition to other companion cats attacking them in the box, to a dislike of the new boyfriend.  You name it, I have heard it.

“Why is kitty going potty in my $400 Nordstrom shoes?”

I had a session one time where a woman called because her husband’s cat was using her expensive shoes as a litter box.  The cat did not potty on her $20 discount shoes, but aimed for the high end stuff.  When I connected with the cat she told me she didn’t like it when mommy and that man locked her out of the her bedroom. 

When I asked the kitty, “Do you mean your daddy locks you out of your room? “

The cat replied, “That man is not my daddy…”

“Oh my,” I said, a bit surprised.  “I will be sure to let your mommy know.”

I tried as delicately as I could to deliver that message. There was an abrupt silence on the other end of the phone as I explained what the cat said.  I never heard from that client again. 

Don’t give up…

This is a temporary problem.  This is not permanent.  Think positive.  Don’t give up.  Approach your situation with a neutral outlook.  Some kitties tell me they ‘like the attention they get‘…even if it’s negative attention.

Never punish a cat for any reason…

Never punish a cat for any reason, especially a litter box issue.  You will confuse the cat even more and make them fearful of you.

Picture them using the litter box every time.  Tell them in your mind our out loud that you really need them to use their box every time.  Tell your cat the new rules in the them those are the new rules in the house.

Finally, if you are beyond frustrated and nothing I have listed above has worked, consider a ‘Litter box 101 Boot Camp’ for your cat.  I have had success in some cases where the cat is confined to a smaller area with a litter box for a short period of time.  Once the cat starts using the box, they are allowed to venture out into the rest of the house.

There are so many things that could be causing your cat to stop using their box.  Scheduling a session and getting to the bottom of it is always helpful.

Schedule a session here:

I’d love to hear your success stories…Offer your experience below in COMMENTS

I bid you peace and abundance.

Karen Anderson~Animal Communicator

Both dogs and cats eat grass from time to time and they tell me it is often associated with a digestive issue.  Some say it is for a stomach upset and others say they ‘just needed it’ in their system.  Cats tell me it helps them eliminate fur balls.

As long as the grass has not been treated with a pesticide this should not be a cause for concern. I suggest purchasing organic wheat grass from a reliable source or growing your own in a small pot, especially for indoor cats.

Grass has a natural enzyme in it that aids in digestion so animals will often self-medicate by eating grass when they feel they need some extra support.  Even though some animals will vomit after eating the grass they are still ingesting the much needed enzymes.

Commercial pet foods which are notoriously high in grains (used for fillers) can aggravate normal digestion in our dogs and cats. 

Digestive supplements can help your dogs or cats overcome these types of issues, click here for more info:

http://search.onlynaturalpet.com/search.aspx?searchterms=digestive%20aid&mf=0

If grass eating and vomiting persists contact your veterinarian for a check up.

In peace,

Karen Anderson

“3-4 million animals euthanized each year in the US,” according to the HSUS.
 http://www.hsus.org/pets/issues_affecting_our_pets/pet_overpopulation_and_ownership_statistics/hsus_pet_overpopulation_estimates.html

January signals a new year for us humans but it also signals a new heat cycle to our unaltered pets.

Here are some answers to your questions from The Williamette Veterinary Clinic  http://www.wvcvets.com/faqs_repro.html

Female cats typically have their first heat around the age of six months, which usually lasts for 5 to 7 days.
 
Cat’s heat cycles are sunlight dependent and they usually have heat cycles every 9 to 13 days from January through October, though some indoor cats exposed to constant light times will cycle all year.

Will it change their behavior/personality?

There are no adverse effects of spaying or neutering pets. Male dogs and cats will become less territorial and aggressive. Weight gain, which is often erroneously associated with neutering and spaying is more accurately due to the slowing of the animal’s metabolism as it reaches adulthood.

What age should you spay/neuter dogs/cats?

It is generally recommended to spay and neuter dogs and cats at six months of age. Spaying your dog or cat at 6 months of age and before her first heat cycle decreases the incidence of life-threatening mammary tumors and uterine infections. Neutering your dog or cat at this age protects him from developing aggressive behaviors and potentially life-threatening prostate disease. Obviously spaying and neutering helps decrease the number of unwanted puppies and kittens that overwhelm our humane societies

At what age does a dog come in heat? How often? How long?
The age of onset of the heat cycle varies with the breed of dog. Small breeds tend to begin cycling sooner, as early as six months of age. Larger breeds begin later, sometimes not until 12-18 months of age. Heat cycles then occur approximately every six months and last approximately three weeks.

At what age does a cat come in heat? How often? How long?

Cats can come into heat as early as six months of age. Increasing day length stimulates them. During the spring and summer, female cats will be receptive to breeding for several days. This will continue to cycle about every 2 weeks or until the cat is bred. The heat cycle will end with coming of fall and decrease in day length.

Should my dog/cat have puppies/kittens first before being spayed?
No. There are no medical benefits associated with an animal have a litter or puppies/kittens prior to being spayed. In fact there is an increase risk of developing mammary tumors with each heat cycle.

Can a dog/cat be spayed while in heat?
We recommend against spaying a dog that is in heat but it can be done. During this time the ovaries and uterus are swollen and filled with blood, increasing the risk of hemorrhage. We prefer to wait until about 4 weeks after your dog goes out of heat to perform surgery. We can spay cats that are in heat.

My dog just got bred by mistake. What should I do?
You have 2 options. You can have the dog spayed as soon as possible, or you can allow the dog to continue the possible pregnancy.

What about assistance if you can’t afford to spay/neuter?

There are many agencies, rescues, and non-profits that will provide low or no-cost spay/neuter certificates.

I personally help to distribute these certificates in my area of Washington state through the FPCA.  I am a volunteer and on the Board of Directors for this non-profit animal rescue.

These grants provide the funding for animals that probably would not have medical care or spay/neuters performed due to the financial status of their humans.

Last year the FPCA provided spay/neuter certs for 19 dogs and 72 cats in this area.

We are currently awaiting more grant money so we can begin offering certificates again but as you can imagine these go quickly!

To find low-cost certificates or programs check with your local veterinarians first.  They can probably offer some other agencies in your area that help with low cost spay/neuter certificates.  Locally we have Spokanimal, Stevens County Cat Care and Petsavers to name a few.

Finally, I am asked every once in a while how the animals feel about being altered.  I can tell you that the overwhelming response is they do not even know it has happened.  They may remember the vet visit but they don’t remember the surgery.

Please spay and neuter your animals and if you know someone who needs financial assistance to get their animals altered, help them find a low cost certificate in their area.

Peace,

Karen