There are a lot of myths floating around out there about the cats and dogs we share our life with.

Here are a few common myths:

Dogs and cats should have a litter before they are spayed.

False.  In fact cats and dogs do not need to have a litter before being spayed. Both will live happier, healthier lives without possible uterine infections and in some cases a lower risk of mammary cancer.

Happy dogs wag their tails.

This may be true but aggressive dogs often wag their tails too.  A wagging tail can mean either agitation or excitement. A dog that wags his tail slowly and moves his entire rear end or crouches down in the classic “play bow” position is usually demonstrating a friendly wag. Tails that are wagged when held higher, tails that “twitch” or a wagging tail held over the back may be associated with aggression.

Dogs and cats will let you know when they are sick.

False, false false! The animal kingdom sees injury and illness as a sign of weakness and instinctual habits will cause most of them to hide and cover up their medical problems.  By the time we notice something is wrong an illness can be quite advanced.

Dogs and cats like tasty food.

Both dogs and cats have poor taste buds and rely mainly on their sense of smell to eat. This explains why if they are congested and can’t breathe properly that they may refuse to eat.

Indoor cats don’t need heart-worm medicine.

False again.  Indoor cats can get heart-worm disease as it is spread by mosquitoes which can easily go inside.

Fireworks and thunderstorms are responsible for countless reports of lost animals.  Even if fireworks are prohibited in your neighborhood many people disregard the law and set off illegal fireworks.  Many people are left with few choices such as medicating and sedating their panicked animals.

Are there other options?    We think so!

Here are a few tips to help ease your anxious dog:

Before we go any further I have to ask…

Does your pet have proper ID tags or a microchip with current information?

It’s also a good idea to have a current color photo of your animal just in case they get out.  Always check with your vet first before administering any new remedies or treatments.

1.  Try a natural stress reliever such as Rescue Remedy for at least a few days before a stressful event.  This can be a move to a new home, visitors arriving, going to the veterinarian’s office, anything that sparks anxiety with your animal.

A few drops massaged onto inside of ear flap is a good way to administer…

Although the directions may say to put a few drops in their water I prefer to place a few drops on my fingertip and massage gently onto the inside of the ear flap.  Be careful not to allow any to drip down the ear canal.  Speak in a low, soothing voice with calm energy.  You can also try a massaging a few drops onto the pads of their feet.

A natural stress reliever for animals

2. Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise before a stressful event.  Taking your dog out for a long and vigorous walk will help drain them of excess energy and restlessness.

Did you know that coddling your dog when they are exhibiting fearful behavior can actually accelerate their fear?

Never reward your dog when they are in a panicked state of mind.  Try not to let them get into that raised level of anxiousness in the first place.

3. Teach your dog a ‘calm down’ command such as ‘easy’ or ‘leave it’.  Over time they will begin to figure out that when you give that command they need to stay calm and relaxed.

Dogs need guidance and instruction…they can’t learn how to stay calm on their own

4.  Play a CD or DVD of thunderstorm noises or firework celebrations on the lowest volume level possible  with your animals nearby.  Reward them with praise, treats and calm energy as they begin to hear the sounds.  Gradually increase the volume over time.   

Praise and reward them for calm behavior…

Proceed slowly, some animals may require more time to adjust. Be patient and consistent with your training.

Try playing something like this:

5. Bring your dog inside if possible.  Close all doors, windows and curtains and consider turning on the TV or radio to help drown out some of the outside noise.

If you can’t be with them try to arrange for a friend or neighbor to be with them…

6.  If possible, stay with your dog during fireworks or thunderstorms.  You become their calm and relaxed role model.  If you can’t be with them consider placing them in a safe and trusted boarding facility or with a trusted friend.  Set up a networking plan with your neighbors in case you can’t be home.

How To Help Your Cat During Stressful Events

Cats may need a quiet place to hide in during thunderstorms or other noisy events.  Consider putting your cat in a guest room with a litter box, food and water during these times.

Cats also benefit from Rescue Remedy during stressful times…

If you close the door, put a note on the outside of the door warning anyone who enters that a very scared cat is in the room and keep the door closed.  Playing soft, low music in that room can help ease your cat’s fears.  Place a towel or article of clothing that has your scent on it near them to give them an extra feeling of security.

Don’t become one of the statistics for lost animals.  Prepare now and avoid heartbreak later.

Spraying or territorial marking is a common and frustrating problem for many households with cats.  It is also the number one reason cats are abandoned in shelters which often results in their demise by euthanasia.

Even though there may be many causes for spraying it is a problem that can be managed and in some cases resolved completely.

Never punish your cat for spraying…

Cats usually spray to mark territory or advertise for a mate

With a few exceptions, getting your cat to stop spraying or marking is very difficult and requires considerable effort on your part.  The good news is it can be done.

If you are looking for a quick fix or a magic pill then stop reading right now. There is no such thing.

I will provide some tried and true tools to help you improve your situation and perhaps resolve it for good. Punishing your cat or rubbing his nose in it is completely unacceptable.  It will only make the situation worse and create deeper problems causing your cat to fear or mistrust you.

Spraying is different than a litter box issue…

Spraying is not a litter box problem.  Here is how to tell the difference.

Spraying or territorial marking is when a male or female cat backs up to a vertical surface and releases anywhere from a few drops to an entire stream of urine.

Cats will spray furniture, speakers, heat registers, draperies, doorways and other areas….

There are usually multiple sites that are sprayed and it follows in a type of pattern. Some urine spraying can be done in a squat position on a horizontal surface but usually it is done standing up. Horizontal marking can be found on the bedspread, stove top, counter top or other unusual places but this is much less common.

This urine stream is a message your cat wants other cats to know, a type of pee mail if you will.  They are actually depositing pheromones as a form of communication with other cats.  This pee mail usually contains messages such as ‘This is MY territory!’ or even, ‘I’m looking for a mate.”. Intact females, those who have not been spayed, can spray as they advertise for a mate.

Each cat can produce different pheromones that mean different things from claiming an object as their own to a pheromone that produces calm and relaxed feeling. It’s a bit like their own personalized, scented business card.

Simply spaying or neutering your cat can stop this behavior…

There are other types of marking other than this spraying behavior such as when a cat rubs up against items and in some cases leaving their feces uncovered. Unneutered males have the highest tendency to spray due to the testosterone in their body.  Sometimes simply neutering your cat can stop this behavior completely.

Any cat, male or female, intact or sterilized can spray but you can greatly reduce the tendency to spray by spaying or neutering your cat.

Litter Box problems are when your cat urinates or defecates, usually in a squat position on a flat surface such as the carpet, counter top or bathtub.   This type of behavior is rarely done backed up to a vertical surface.  For litter box problem solving click here:

What Can You Do?

Your cat has now ruined another pair of speakers.  The house smells like a giant litter box.  Your spouse or significant other is threatening to get rid of your cat.  What can you do?

1. First, take your cat to the vet to rule out any kind of medical issue.  Most people skip this very important step and they want me to just magically talk to their cat and tell them to stop spraying.  If this were possible, I’d be famous and on Oprah.  It’s just not that easy.  This crucial step and should not be overlooked.

2.  Spay or neuter your cat.  Seriously.  It will not change their personality or make them love you any less.  Click here to read more about this.

Low cost or sometimes free spay/neuters can be available if you qualify. Click here for more info.

If you cannot find anything local on the above link do an Internet search in your area.  You may be surprised at the resources you can find.

Spraying is a natural behavior in all cats including lions and tigers…

I’ve had some clients tell me their cat is spraying to spite them or that their cat is mad at them for leaving on a business trip or vacation.  While portions of those statements may be true spraying is a natural behavior for cats.  Even lions, tigers and other big cats spray to mark territory. I was visiting Cat Tales, a wildlife refuge here in Spokane and almost got nailed by a very large spray from one of the white tigers.  He was not mad at me or trying to tell me anything, he was marking that part of the enclosure as his own. I just happened to be in the line of fire.  Fortunately, I was able to jump out of the way and avoid a rather unpleasant bath.

My cat is mad at me that’s why he is spraying…

Your recent business trip may have caused a change in your cat’s routine and that may spark spraying but your cat is not really mad at you.  That is more of a human concept or trait.  Cats have a different motivation than humans. Mother nature and instincts runs very deep in our feline friends.  Their motivation is usually driven by some kind of natural instinct, not revenge like a human’s thought process.

3.  Use an ammonia-free enzymatic cleaner to thoroughly treat all affected areas.  The smell of ammonia can actually draw the cat back to that spot to spray again.  I have tried so many products and as of right now I like one called SCOE. I have tested this brand and it worked on some pretty tough stains and odors.  Several applications may be necessary.

Keep kitty away from the treated spot…

Block the treated area with a big box over the top so the air can still move around but kitty can’t get to it.  Another way is to take a piece of cardboard and put double-backed sticky tape in strips along the cardboard.  Place the cardboard over the treated area.  Kitty won’t like getting on the tape and will leave the area alone. Use a black light to find other areas in your home that may be affected. Scat matts, spray kits and other products are available but it may get a bit costly if your cat is spraying in several areas. Personally, I am not a big fan of scat matts which release a static pulse to deter your cat.

Stress can be a contributing factor to spraying…

4.  Multiple cat households often set the stage for spraying.  Simply too many cats in too small of a space can create stress.  Sometimes it can be another cat in the neighborhood that comes by and leaves his/her scent at your door.  Your cat sees or smells this scent and suddenly begins to spray.  Other stress factors include losing a job, changes in your schedule, a new baby, a new boyfriend/girlfriend, guests and any kind turmoil in the household.  Identify the stress factors in your home and do your best to eliminate them.

There have been many occasions where the client denies that there is any stress in the house but the cat tells a different story…

It certainly can’t hurt to schedule a session and see what is bugging your cat.

One solution in this case is to give your cats the illusion of more space in a very inexpensive way.  Empty boxes on the floor create the illusion of space to cats.  Cat shelves, or cat furniture that goes high up to the ceiling can also create more space.  Think of providing more places for your cat to climb up or into as a solution to more space.  Outdoor playpens or enclosures are also a great idea if you can afford them.

Opening the doors in springtime can sometimes trigger spraying…

5. Pheromones can sometimes help.  There are some plug in type of pheromones you can try that release a ‘feel good’ hormone that only your cat can smell.  Give it a try and see if it works for you. ‘Feliway’ is a product that is available in pet stores. I am not a fan of giving medications like Prozac to cats to control this behavior.  But if it means keeping kitty versus taking him to the shelter I guess then I’d have to cave on that one. I prefer more natural approaches such as Rescue Remedy and other flower essences.

Replace their feelings of satisfaction with a negative response…

6. Some cats tell me they get a sense of satisfaction from spraying and describe this experience as ‘euphoric’.  If you have ever watched a cat spray they get this goofy, glazed look in their eyes.  I believe this is that satisfying feeling they get from releasing their scent.  By simply disrupting their routine and stopping your cat before he sprays can break the habit.

For instance, try following your cat around and just before he/she initiates the spraying stomp your feet or clap your hands causing a loud distraction.  Never direct this toward the cat but stay close enough that the sound disrupts their brain from completing the spray.

An empty soda can filled with pebbles or pennies can make a loud and distracting noise….

If a cat begins to receive more negative responses before he begins to spray this can defeat a habit in a few weeks.  An empty soda can filled with pebbles or pennies can be used too.  Just shake it vigorously right as you see your cat preparing to spray.  Cats will often have a ritual or routine they follow as they prepare to spray.  This will provide you with a few moments to prepare.  Once you see them going to that spot initiate the negative response.

Behavior problems start at home with you and end at home with you.  Make sure you are taking the proper steps to achieve the best results in your household.  Don’t expect me or any other Animal Communicator to resolve your problems for you.

It is my job to deliver your animal’s messages to you but it’s up to you to make the necessary changes for a happy, balanced and peaceful household.

Boxes provide the illusion of more space

If you are lucky enough to have cats and not have a litter box issue, consider yourself blessed.  I get more calls and emails about litter box issues than just about every other behavior problem combined.   

There is no magic cure to get kitty back in the litter box and just because I can ‘talk’ to them does not mean they will suddenly start using the box.  It has happened, but only on rare occasions.  

Refusing to use a litter box is completely different from territorial spraying or marking. When a cat backs up to a vertical surface such as a wall, corner, piece of furniture, etc. and releases a stream of urine it is called spraying.  I’ll cover spraying issues another time.

Improper litter box elimination, whether it is urinating or defecating outside of the litter box, is usually done on a horizontal surface such as the floor, tile, carpet, bed, counter top, etc. If you are experiencing a litter box problem the first thing you have to do is rule out any kind of medical issue.

The first and most important step is to rule out a medical problem…

Get a thorough check up and rule out any types of bladder issues, infections, constipation or urinary blockages.  If a cat experiences any kind of pain during elimination, they may associate the litter box as a source of their pain, and avoid the box completely.

Stress is the most common source of litter box troubles

Stress is a common underlying problem with litter box issues.  Stress can come from you, your family, your other animals, a job change, moving, a new baby, etc.  Rule out any potential areas of stress in your environment. Create a relaxed, balanced and peaceful space for your cat.

Let’s go over a few helpful tips

• Number of Litter boxes-The Golden Rule is 1 box per cat plus one box.  So if you have 2 cats you should ideally have 3 boxes.
• Litter Box location-Placing kitty’s box in a high traffic area, laundry room, or other noise inducing area is a recipe for disaster.  I had one cat tell me she would not go in the litter box because the ‘loud, scary monster’ was going to attack her.  Turned out the litter box was in the laundry room and the cat had been in there using the box when the loud buzzer when off.  Choose a quiet, safe location that does not have a lot of distractions or noises.
• Basement litter boxes- Ladies, help me out here.  Have you ever been out in public, had to use the restroom and realized you had to walk a mile to get to the nearest one? By the time you arrive you are ready to burst.  If you have placed your litter box in the furthest spot away from everyone …in the last room in the basement, be prepared to have your cat choose a closer spot to go potty.  Trust me here, they will choose a sink, bathtub, corner, planter, you name it.  Just don’t make them walk so far to get to the litter box.
• Litter- This is really tricky.  Some cats tell me that they like the finest, softest grade of litter, which explains why they like to go on clothing, carpets and other soft spots.  Choose a high quality, fine grade litter. Each cat is different, however so I suggest giving them choices.  Let them choose.  Fill one box with one brand and another box with the other brand.  See what brand they like best.
• No Litter- What? No litter? Yup, that’s right, I have actually had successes with cats who were using shiny surfaces as a litter box, such as a sink, bathtub, counter top, etc…start to use an empty litter box placed near the spot they were using.  Try it.  It just might work.  Then each day move the box a bit closer to where you ultimately want it.
• Place Box Near Area - Another trick is to place a litter box near the area they are using as their favorite spot.  Slowly over time move the box closer to where you ultimately want it.
• Deodorizers- Some cats like them, some cats don’t.  Cats have 60-to-80 million olfactory cells compared to a humans 5-to-20 million cells.  That’s huge.  Consider switching to odorless if you are having a problem getting kitty to go in the box.
• Covered Litter Boxes- To cover, or not to cover, that is the question.  I say give them a choice.  Cats like to change their minds and what they like today they may not like tomorrow.  Give them a covered box and and uncovered box.  Why not!
• Cleanliness- Okay, let’s be honest. When is the last time you cleaned and really disinfected your litter boxes? Just do it.  Once a month is my recommendation.
• One Stop Shopping -  Again ladies, I need your help here.  I don’t know about you but when I go shopping I want to get as many items in one place as possible.  I don’t like going all over town to run my errands.  Cats can feel the same way too.  Give them more than one reason to go to their box. Placing a scratching post near the area where the box is, placing food or water near the area, (Not too close), make this a one stop location for all your kitty’s needs.
• Eliminating Odors- I have tried just about every cleaning product and enzymatic powder on the market and right now I really like SCOE.  I’ve tried Nature’s Miracle, Anti-Icky poo, Planet Urine, etc.  The SCOE with several applications even got out some old and heavily stained problem areas.

Schedule a session…

A session can always help find out what the problem is, if someone or something is bothering your cat.  In past sessions it has been everything from a medical condition to other companion cats attacking them in the box, to a dislike of the new boyfriend.  You name it, I have heard it.

“Why is kitty going potty in my $400 Nordstrom shoes?”

I had a session one time where a woman called because her husband’s cat was using her expensive shoes as a litter box.  The cat did not potty on her $20 discount shoes, but aimed for the high end stuff.  When I connected with the cat she told me she didn’t like it when mommy and that man locked her out of the her bedroom. 

When I asked the kitty, “Do you mean your daddy locks you out of your room? “

The cat replied, “That man is not my daddy…”

“Oh my,” I said, a bit surprised.  “I will be sure to let your mommy know.”

I tried as delicately as I could to deliver that message. There was an abrupt silence on the other end of the phone as I explained what the cat said.  I never heard from that client again. 

Don’t give up…

This is a temporary problem.  This is not permanent.  Think positive.  Don’t give up.  Approach your situation with a neutral outlook.  Some kitties tell me they ‘like the attention they get‘…even if it’s negative attention.

Never punish a cat for any reason…

Never punish a cat for any reason, especially a litter box issue.  You will confuse the cat even more and make them fearful of you.

Picture them using the litter box every time.  Tell them in your mind our out loud that you really need them to use their box every time.  Tell your cat the new rules in the them those are the new rules in the house.

Finally, if you are beyond frustrated and nothing I have listed above has worked, consider a ‘Litter box 101 Boot Camp’ for your cat.  I have had success in some cases where the cat is confined to a smaller area with a litter box for a short period of time.  Once the cat starts using the box, they are allowed to venture out into the rest of the house.

There are so many things that could be causing your cat to stop using their box.  Scheduling a session and getting to the bottom of it is always helpful.

Schedule a session here:

I’d love to hear your success stories…Offer your experience below in COMMENTS

I bid you peace and abundance.

Karen Anderson~Animal Communicator

Those of us who share our lives with horses know all to well how frustrating it can be at times.  We look forward to a nice trail ride or even a training session with our best friend and what do we get?Sometimes we get bucked off. 

It happens to the best of us and yes it happens to me.  I haven’t been bucked off in a long time but what do you do if your horse is acting up?  What does all this mean?

Barbara contacted me recently for an email session for her two horses, Phantom and Rio.  Phantom was recovering from surgery last December and was not willingly taking up his right lead.

Rio was another story.  Barbara’s daughter, Larissa would try to ride him and he would buck, rear and grit his teeth.  Wondering what was going on with him, Barbara asked me to get to the bottom of Rio’s problem.

Now remember, the only information I have is the horses’ name, age and the goal for each horse.  Nothing else.

Rio immediately got in my face and tried to intimidate me.  He is 7 years old and a very handsome gelding who is very much full of himself.  When he realized I could not be intimidated he started to share his feelings with me and spoke about Larissa. 

“I do not respect her as a leader,” he shared. 

Now don’t confuse respect and love, those are two different things. 

‘I feel her tense up when she rides me, I see this as weakness.”  he told me. 

Rio proceeded to tell me he is in charge, not Larissa.  I could clearly see that Larissa is intimidated by this big, beautiful gelding.  I was nearly exhausted after his session.  Rio said he would like there to be some ‘fun times‘ and not all work, work, work.  

Phantom on the other hand was a huge sweetie pie.  He sent love, love, love to his humans and spoke of the pain he felt on his injured knee.  He explained to me that he fell down on his left side trying to overcompensate for his injured right knee.  In doing so he is dealing with a pretty high level of pain and that is why he did not willing take up the right lead. He asked for his human mom to ‘wrap him up again‘ and referred to some kind of treatment he was getting in the past.  I also received an acupuncture reference for Phantom to get his system unblocked and flowing again.

After I was done, I sent of the recorded session to Barbara for her to review.  Below is her response:

Karen,
I just finished listening to your reading and have to say that I am very, very amazed!  You described Rio’s personality perfectly and Larissa is intimidated by Rio.  When we first bought him, Larissa’s trainer didn’t allow Larissa to work with Rio.  The trainer insisted that she must ride Rio and she was very heavy handed.  A year and a half later, Rio was showing great dominance issues.  

Since then, Rio has been giving us behavioral problems.  But, that is going to change.  We will introduce more fun times, even though we don’t quite know what that means, but we will experiment.  If you don’t mind, I will contact you in several months to see the progress in both Rio and Phantom.

Phantom is my sweetheart.  He is the love of my husband’s life!!  I should get jealous.  I was doing laser therapy with Phantom after surgery and am quite surprised that he remembered that!  I will start that up again and will continue it.  I will get him acupuncture treatment as well to aid in his healing process.  Rather than riding Phantom now, we will let him heal further. 

Again, thank you so much for the reading.  Amazing and most valuable information.  Thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Barbara